Discovering the Lowveld – A Journey Beyond the Blyde River Canyon
When I first set out to explore the Blyde River Canyon, I was expecting to see some breathtaking views and perhaps learn a bit about the area. Little did I know that this journey would unravel a whole new world of experiences, each trip leaving me more fascinated and drawn to the Lowveld region of South Africa.
The Surprising Reach of the Drakensberg Mountains
Like many, I grew up with the impression that the Drakensberg Mountains were confined to the west of Durban and the towering peaks surrounding Lesotho. So, imagine my surprise when I found out that the Drakensberg range stretches far north, reaching into the Lowveld and beyond. The Blyde River Canyon, with its lush greenery and dramatic cliffs, is a testament to this geographical wonder. It’s a reminder of how little we sometimes know about the vastness of our own country.
Exploring the Lowveld: A Land of Riches
The Lowveld, with its subtropical climate, is a fertile land where soft fruits like citrus, nuts, and various vegetables thrive. As you ascend into areas like Hoedspruit, the abundance of these farms becomes evident. The rolling hills and valleys, dotted with orchards and plantations, create a patchwork of greenery that is as nourishing to the soul as it is to the land.
My first trip to this region was filled with anticipation, but it was only on subsequent visits that I truly began to appreciate the depth and diversity of the Lowveld. Each journey revealed something new, from the vibrant small towns like Orighstad, Lydenburg, Graskop, and White River, to the winding roads of the famous Panorama Route.
The Boom in Hoedspruit: A Surprising Hub of Investment
Hoedspruit, in particular, has been a revelation. Once a sleepy small town, it has seen substantial investment in recent years. New resorts and developments are popping up, transforming the area into a surprising hub of activity and luxury. One of the most intriguing developments is the Aerotel, where not one but two Boeing planes have been converted into luxury hotels. It’s fascinating to see how this small town is evolving, blending its rustic charm with modern opulence.
The Panorama Route: A Drive Through Time and Industry
Driving along the Panorama Route is like stepping back in time. The landscape is dotted with reminders of the region’s rich history, from the gold rush town of Pilgrim’s Rest to the imposing power stations and mines. These industrial giants sit on the outskirts and go deeper into Limpopo, painting a picture of a community intertwined with the land’s natural wealth. It’s hard not to feel a sense of bemusement when looking at these power stations, wondering why we still struggle with load shedding despite the apparent abundance of resources.
The Sudwala Caves: A Historical Encounter
One of the most awe-inspiring experiences of my travels was visiting the Sudwala Caves. Stepping into the vastness of the cave system felt like entering a natural cathedral, or as I humorously thought, a shopping mall. The scale is truly astonishing—you could easily fit thousands of people inside. The history of the caves is equally remarkable. At the entrance, a fire was once lit in an attempt to kill Somcuba and his people, adding a dark layer to the already mysterious atmosphere.
Moholoholo and Mariepskop: Mountains and Memories
Moholoholo, or the “Mountain of the Wind,” and the neighboring Mariepskop are steeped in history. The name itself evokes a sense of mystery and power, and the fierce battle between the Mapulana people and the Swazi adds to its significance. But getting there is no easy feat—the mountain pass is hectic, with winding roads that test your nerves. The strangeness of the border between Mpumalanga and Limpopo at the Blyde River Canyon area adds to the adventure. To reach one side of the canyon, you have to go through Kampersrus, and to get to the other side, you need to drive around Hoedspruit and up another scenic mountain pass, which, while not as difficult, still offers its own challenges. This pass even features a really cool tunnel, adding a touch of excitement to the journey.
The Wild and the Worries
Staying in a game farm for the first time was an experience unlike any other. The isolation, the stillness, and the ever-present possibility of encountering wildlife—especially leopards—brought a mix of excitement and fear. The silence of the wild was almost deafening, a stark contrast to the constant hum of modern life. Even the mundane act of sitting on the toilet became a moment of vulnerability, as I humorously imagined having to negotiate with a leopard for a moment to pull up my pants. It’s these small, humorous fears that make such experiences all the more memorable.
Observing the Labor Force
As someone who pays attention to the details of life in different regions, I couldn’t help but notice the labor force in the Lowveld. The sight of workers being transported to and from the farms on flatbed trucks, packed tightly like sardines, was striking. It became apparent that many of these workers were foreigners from neighboring countries, a detail that added another layer to my understanding of the area’s economy.
A Journey of Discovery
My journeys to the Blyde River Canyon and the Lowveld have been more than just trips; they’ve been a series of discoveries. Each visit has opened my eyes to the region’s natural beauty, its rich history, and the lives of the people who live there. From the dramatic landscapes to the small towns, and from the historical landmarks to the everyday life of the locals, I’ve learned that the Lowveld is a place where nature, history, and modern life intersect in the most fascinating ways.
What’s Next?
Given the depth and breadth of experiences I’ve had in the Lowveld, I realize that one blog post can hardly do it justice. This is just the beginning of a series where I’ll dive deeper into the unique aspects of this region—its history, its people, and its natural wonders. Stay tuned as I explore the Lowveld in more detail, uncover the mysteries of Moholoholo, and take you along the winding roads of the Panorama Route. There’s so much more to discover, and I can’t wait to share it all with you.